Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Under Hood Checks


Do you know your way around under the hood of your car? While not as critical as it used to be, checking under the hood periodically can head off problems before they become costly. Today, with self service gas stations everywhere, often the only way you will get it done is for you to do it yourself.

Start by reading your owners manual. There will always be a section on under hood checks. Keep a pair of old gloves and a roll of paper towels in the trunk

First, a word about safety. Read the safety warnings in your owners manual and any safety warning stickers that may be under the hood.

If the engine has been running for any length of time, there are areas under the hood that can be very hot. Except for checking transmission fluid level, all checks should be done while the engine is turned off. If the engine is running, do not put your hands near any belts or fans. If you are not comfortable with touching a hot or running engine, then just do the checks that can be done with the engine cold and turned off and have someone else do the rest.


Engine oil level
This is the most important under-hood check you can do. An engine cannot run without oil even for a minute without serious engine damage or total destruction! To check the oil level, make sure that the engine is turned off, then find the engine oil dipstick and remove it. With a paper towel or rag, wipe off the end of the stick and notice the markings on it. You will usually see a mark for "Full" and another mark for "Add." Check your owners manual to be sure. Push the stick back into the tube until it seats then immediately pull it out to see the oil level. You should not add oil unless the level is below the "Add" mark and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the "Full" mark. Your main concern with this check is that oil consumption is not rapidly increasing. If it is, take your car to a repair shop as soon as possible and have it checked out. It is acceptable for the oil to be dark as long as you change it at the recommended intervals. However, it should never be foamy and should never have a strong gasoline smell. If either of these conditions exist, have it checked out soon.
Transmission fluid
Most automatic transmissions should be checked while the engine is running. Check your owners manual to be sure. Also make sure the car is on a level surface and fully warmed up. Pull the transmission dipstick out, wipe off the end and note the markings on the end of the stick. The usual markings are "Full" and "Add 1 pint." Push the stick into the tube until it seats, then immediately pull it out to see the fluid level. Transmission fluid should be pink or red in color with the look and consistency of cherry cough syrup. If the fluid is a muddy brown or has a burnt smell, have it checked by a mechanic. As with the engine, never add fluid unless it is below the "Add" mark and never bring it above the "Full" mark. Make sure you use the correct transmission fluid for your vehicle. If you plan to add Transmission fluid yourself, you should know that fluid usually comes in quarts, but the level may not be low enough to take the full quart. Also, you will need a special funnel to get the fluid into the small tube that the dipstick came out of. Check your owners manual for the type of fluid and do not substitute anything else. Any noticeable transmission oil consumption should be checked out at a repair shop.
Brake fluid
The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood right in front of the steering wheel. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear out. This is a normal condition and you shouldn't worry about it. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE! Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a very high boiling point .Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture which will lower that boiling point.
Power steering fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir usually has a small dipstick attached to the cap. Remove the cap and check the fluid level. The level should not change more than the normal range on the stick. If you have to add fluid more than once or twice a year, then have the system checked for leaks. These systems are easily damaged if you drive while the fluid is very low. Another warning of low power steering fluid is a buzzing noise when you turn the steering wheel at slow speeds.
Coolant (Antifreeze) level
Never open the radiator of a car that has just been running. The cooling system of a car is under high pressure with fluid that is usually hotter than boiling water. Look for the cooling system reserve tank, somewhere near the radiator. It is usually translucent white so you can see the fluid level without opening it. (Do not confuse it with the windshield washer tank). The reserve tank will have two marks on the side of it. "FULL HOT" and "FULL COLD." If the level frequently goes below "full cold" after adding fluid, you probably have a leak which should be checked as soon as possible. Today's engines are much more susceptible to damage from overheating, so do not neglect this important system.
Battery
Most batteries today are "maintenance free" which simply means that you can't check the water level. This doesn't mean however, that there is nothing to check. The main things to check are the top of the battery which should be clean and dry, and the terminal connections which should be clean and tight. If the top of the battery continuously becomes damp or corroded soon after cleaning, then have the charging system and battery checked by your mechanic.
Windshield washer solvent
Windshield washer solvent is readily available by the gallon in auto supply stores as well as supermarkets and it is cheap. It is fine to use with or without adding water but will clean better undiluted. Never dilute it during winter months to insure that it retains its antifreeze protection.
Belts & Hoses
In most cases your mechanic can check your belts and hoses when you bring in the car for an oil change. However, if you get your oil changed by some quick lube type centers, belts and hoses may not be on their list of items to check in which case you're on your own. These checks are best done while the car is cold.

Belts are used to drive a number of components on an engine including: the water pump, power steering pump, air conditioner, alternator and an emission control pump. Some later model cars have a single "serpentine" belt that handles everything. This type of belt looks flat on one side with several ribs on the other side. You should check the ribbed side for signs of dry and cracked rubber. Serpentine belts are usually self adjusting and very durable. They should last about 30,000 miles. The other type of belt is called a "V" belt and is adjustable. There is usually more than one to an engine, sometimes three or four. Check each one for cracks and tightness and have them replaced if you find any problems. Some V belts are hard to reach but no less important so if you can't reach it to check then have your mechanic do it periodically.

Hoses should be checked visually and by feel. You are looking for dry cracked rubber, especially at the ends where they are attached. You should also check the ends for any signs of ballooning.
Windshield wiper blades
I think that every driver knows what it is like to drive in the rain with bad wiper blades. (I know... I'm not under the hood any more... stop being technical) Wiper blades should be changed every 6,000 to 10,000 miles. Wiper blades will tend to streak when they are dirty. Take a paper towel with some window cleaner and clean the rubber blade whenever you clean the windshield.
Tires
Buy a decent tire gage and keep it in the car. Improper tire pressure can affect tire wear as well as ride and handling. You should always check your tires when they are cold. Use the manufacturers recommended tire pressures. Tire pressure tends to rise as you drive due to heat build-up. Manufacturers have this in mind when they set the recommended cold pressures so do not let air out when the tire gets hot. Check the tire again when it cools off and you will find that the pressure is back to where it was. Tire pressure will change with the seasons, so in winter months make sure they are not under inflated. Remember, always check them when they are cold.

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Penggunaan Isyarat Lampu Dengan Betul


Lampu isyarat berwarna kuning pada kereta merupakan ciri-ciri keselamatan penting yang membantu pejalan kaki serta pengguna jalan lain untuk mengetahui ke arah mana sebuah kereta akan menghala. Lampu isyarat kuning akan membolehkan pengguna-pengguna jalan raya untuk melihat kereta dengan jelas dan berwaspada terhadap arah tujuan kereta tersebut.

Namun, sekarang ini didapati banyak kereta yang tidak menggunakan lampu isyarat yang betul. Lampu isyarat di sesetengah kereta tidak berwarna kuning, sebaliknya ditukarkan dengan lampu berwarna merah. Lampu merah ini boleh disalahertikan dengan warna ‘casing’ lampu merah yang mempunyai fungsi yang lain pula.

Kekeliruan ini menyebabkan pemandu kereta lain mungkin tidak dapat melihat lampu isyarat kereta tersebut dengan jelas. Lampu isyarat sepatutnya menunjukkan warna yang berbeza secara jelas berbanding dengan lampu lain. Masalah lain adalah, sesetengah kereta mempunyai lampu isyarat yang diletakkan di tengah-tengah ‘casing’ lampu, dan bukannya di bahagian tepi.

Apabila lampu isyarat tidak ditempatkan di kedudukan yang sesuai, maka pemandu kereta di sebelah sisi kenderaan tidak akan dapat melihat kerana lampu isyarat hanya ditunjukkan kepada pemandu di belakang kenderaan. Ini boleh menyebabkan kemalangan.

Saiz lampu isyarat pada sesetengah kenderaan pula terlalu kecil. Apabila lampu isyarat tidak cukup besar dan terang, ia akan menyebabkan penglihatan yang kurang jelas ketika hujan atau cuaca yang buruk. Ada juga segelintir pemandu yang menyalakan lampu “fog” walaupun penglihatan amat jelas. Intensiti cahaya yang tinggi daripada lampu ini menyebabkan kesulitan dan ketidakselesaan bagi pemandu-pemandu yang lain.

Jabatan Standard Malaysia telah membangunkan MS IEC 60810:2008, Lampu untuk Kenderaan di Jalan – Keperluan Prestasi (Semakan Pertama) (IEC 60810:2003, IDT). Dokumen Malaysian Standard ini untuk lampu yang boleh digantikan (lampu pijar dan ‘discharge’) untuk digunakan dalam lampu depan, lampu ‘fog” dan lampu isyarat untuk kenderaan jalan. Ini adalah khas untuk lampu-lampu yang didaftar dalam IEC 60809.

Walau bagaimanapun, standard ini juga boleh digunakan untuk lampu lain yang dikategorikan dalam ruang lingkup standard ini, serta untuk pembangunan masa depan, misalnya cahaya dihasilkan oleh diod pancaran cahaya (LED).

Kemalangan boleh terjadi kerana sesetengah pemandu mengubah suai kereta mereka tanpa mengikuti spesifikasi dan ciri-ciri keselamatan yang betul serta tidak mementingkan keselamatan. Statistik Jabatan Keselamatan Jalan Raya Malaysia menunjukkan bahawa pada tahun 2010, jumlah kemalangan yang melibatkan motokar adalah sekitar 472,307 (peningkatan sebanyak 7.07% dari tahun 2008). Jumlah kemalangan yang melibatkan semua jenis kenderaan adalah 705,623 (peningkatan sebanyak 4.36% dari tahun 2008).

Para pemandu haruslah ingat bahawa mereka perlu mematuhi peraturan-peraturan yang telah ditetapkan dan tidak sewajarnya menunggu sehingga pihak berkuasa mengenakkan tindakan ke atas mereka. Ciri-ciri keselamatan pada kereta harus dipastikan supaya berfungsi mengikut tujuannya dan bukan untuk bergaya. Para pemandu juga harus lebih bertanggungjawab terhadap tabiat pemanduan dan penyelenggaraan kenderaan secara berkala untuk menjamin keselamatan mereka sendiri.

Jabatan Keselamatan Jalan Raya Malaysia perlu mengenakan tindakan yang tegas terhadap pemandu-pemandu yang tidak mengikuti ciri keselamatan di dalam kereta mereka. Begitu juga kepada pemandu-pemandu yang membuat pengubahsuaian lampu kereta dan aksesori tanpa kebenaran. Pihak berkuasa juga harus memastikan bahawa kenderaan-kenderaan mengikuti peraturan-peraturan dan standard yang ada, serta melarang penggunaan lampu atau alat-alat yang berkemungkinan akan membahayakan keselamatan bagi mengurangkan jumlah kemalangan di Malaysia.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Winter Auto Maintenance Checklist


Winter is upon us, and winter driving comes with it. While safety is an important consideration all year long, there are certainly some auto maintenance jobs and safety checks that are specific to chilled air and winter driving that are a good idea to check into before we're knee deep in the season. To be sure you don't end up a road popsicle, or even worse end up with your holiday budget on ice thanks to unexpected repairs, have a look under the hood to be sure things are ship shape. As with any change of season, you should go to your regular maintenance log to make sure you are up to date on the maintenance items that should be taken care of throughout the year. The change of seasons is a great time to go through some once-a-year or twice-a-year auto maintenance tasks.

Winter Specific Maintenance
In addition to the added perils of winter driving, the change in weather can bring peril to your car's systems. Freezing temps, salted roads and wintery precipitation can gang up on your car if you don't give it a baseball-bat sized maintenance session. These winter maintenance jobs will keep you out of trouble:

Check your antifreeze
Your antifreeze (the juice that goes in your radiator) is an essential part of your car's winter protection. Your car contains a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. Make sure the level is full and the mixture is close to 50/50. Many service stations and repair centers will check this mixture free, or you can buy a tester for around $5. You did remember to perform a radiator flush last spring, didn't you?

Inspect your tires
The last line of defense between you and an oak tree are your tires. Winter is not the time to get cheap about your tires, so take the time to check the tread depth. The National Highway Transportation Safety Board says you need at least 2/32" of depth to be safe. It's been my experience, especially in winter weather, that anything less than 4/32" (1/8") be replaced soon. The old penny test is as reliable as anything to find out whether your treads are ready for winter action. Also, be sure to check your tire pressure. Believe it or not, they lose a little pressure when it gets cold, so pump 'em up.

Replace your wipers
Wipers? What do your windshield wipers have to do with winter weather? Two things. First, anything falling from the sky is going to end up on your windshield, and unless you have a team of beavers riding on the hood of your car the task of clearing it falls on your wipers. Second, in areas that see snowfall in the winter, you're also driving through that soupy muck that's left on the road once the highway department does their thing. This muck includes a lot of sand and salt, both of which end up on your windshield. It takes wipers that are in top shape to keep your windshield clean and safe.

Check your windshield washer fluid
You'll be using lots of washer fluid as you try to keep your windshield sparkly. A mile stuck behind an 18-wheeler will have your windshield looking like a Desert Humvee if you're low on washer fluid. *Tip: Don't fill your washer fluid reservoir with anything except washer fluid, it won't freeze!

Annual Maintenance Procedures
On top of the checks you need to perform to ensure safe winter driving, now's a good time to do some annual maintenance. These aren't necessarily specific to winter driving, but it's a good point on the calendar to get around to doing this stuff.

Clean your battery posts
Starting problems are a bummer any time of year. Regularly treating your battery to a cleaning can keep electrical gremlins at bay.

Inspect your spark plug wires
Cracked up plug wires affect performance, gas mileage and general reliability. Be sure yours are in top shape.

Inspect your brakes
Brakes are not a good area to cut corners. Be sure your brakes have enough meat left to get you through the season.

Check Your Engine Oil
This should go without saying and should be done at least monthly. But in case you're an amnesiac ... you should also do an oil change!

Cold weather safety should be a concern for anybody living in a cold climate. These tips will give you the upper hand when Old Man Winter tries to put a chill on your winter travels. If you're extra curious about staying generally safe in winter weather, the National Weather Service has an excellent Winter Safety & Awareness guide that covers everything from how storms brew to a list of history's billion dollar winter wonders.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Penjagaan Kereta Yang Rapi




• Panaskan enjin selama 5 - 10 minit sebelum memulakan perjalanan.

• Biasakan diri mendengar bunyi enjin. Ia melatih anda mengesan bunyi ganjil pada enjin dan ia membantu mengesan masalah pada bahagian-bahagian tertentu.

• Setiap minggu luangkan masa memeriksa bahagian keselamatan kenderaan seperti sistem brek dengan menguji pelapik brek supaya ia tidak haus.
• Anda juga boleh memeriksa sistem penyaman udara serta cecair pada enjin kenderaan seperti minyak pelincir, air radiator, minyak brek dan pencuci cermin.

• Untuk memastikan cat kenderaan tidak pudar, luangkan sedikit masa membasuh atau menghantarnya untuk dicuci serta dikilatkan supaya cat kenderaan tidak makan USIA.

• Setiap bulan periksa tekanan udara pada tayar anda. Ia penting bagi memastikan kenderaan dipandu stabil dengan penggunaan tekanan yang betul.

• Tayar kekurangan tekanan udara menyebabkan kenderaan berat pada stereng atau boleh mengakibatkan kebocoran. Ia juga boleh memberi kesan terhadap bunga tayar jika kekurangan tekanan udara.

• Anda juga boleh menguji sistem brek dan membersihkan penapis udara kenderaan supaya sentiasa bersih.

Pemeriksaan berkala elak terkandas

Sama ada anda menggunakan kereta terpakai atau baru, aspek yang perlu diambil berat adalah pretasi serta keselamatnnya.
Jika bercadang membeli kereta terpakai, seboleh-bolehnya bawa bersama mekanik atau rakan yang mahir bagi memeriksa kenderaan yang hendak dibeli, membolehkan kita mengesan kerosakan.

Bagi memastikan kenderaan sentiasa berada dalam keadaan selamat dan tidak bermasalah, pemilik dinasihatkan melakukan penyelenggaraan secara berkala.

Dapatkan nasihat dari pusat servis supaya anda boleh lakukan sendiri apabila mempunyai waktu lapang.

Dengan adanya rutin penjagaan secara berkala, pengguna mengetahui keadaan kenderaan seperti mengesan bahagian atau komponen yang haus atau rosak dan perlu diganti.

Keadaan ini perlu dilakukan untuk mengelak kereta tidak fungsi ketika dalam perjalanan, terutama ketika kesesakan lalu lintas dan perjalanan jauh.

Suatu langkah bijak ialah pemilik kenderaan menjadualkan penyelenggaran dan menetapkan waktu yang sesuai untuk kerja membaikinya.

Ramai yang tidak mengambil berat untuk melakukan pemeriksaan, sebaliknya hanya mengharapkan pusat servis melakukanya sedangkan antara tempoh servis itu, pelbagai masalah boleh berlaku.

Sebahagian pemeriksaan boleh dilakukan sendiri, seperti bunga dan tekanan again tayar, tahap minyak pelincir, air bateri dan pengelap cermin. Jadikan amalan berjalan mengelilingi kereta setiap pagi sambil memeriksa tekanan again tayar, lampu isyarat serta lampu besar agar sebarang kerosakan boleh dikesan. Jika kadar kehausan pada tayar tidak seimbangan, menunjukkan penjajaran tayar tidak betul dan perlu dijajar semula. Jika jajaran roda sentiasa sempurna, jangka hayat tayar yang sekarang makin mahal, Akan lebih lama boleh membolehkan kita menjimatkan kos.

Sekurang-kurangnya seminggu sekali periksa bahagian - bahagian enjin, terutama tahap minyak pelincir, cecair brek dan stereng kuasa, air dan air bateri.

Jika tahap minyak pelincir berkurangan, periksa kemungkinan berlaku kebocoran kerana minyak pelincir tidak akan berkurangan jika enjin sempurna.

Begitu juga dengan cecair brek, tidak akan berkurangan jika tidak berlaku kebocoran. Jika minyak brek berkurangan tapi tiada kebocoran dikesan, ia menunjukkan pad brek sudah haus dan perlu diperiksa sama ada perlu diperiksa sama ada perlu diganti atau tidak.

Bateri yang kekurangan cecairnya boleh membawa padah termasuk bateri tidak berfungsi dan lebih buruk, ia menjadi panas dan terbakar.

Air dalam radiator perlu diperiksa selalu kerana ia amat penting memastikan enjin tidak terlalu panas terutama ketika kesesakan lalu lintas.

Pastikan anda menggantikan minyak gear, sama ada secara manual atau automatik, mengikut jadual waktu ditetapkan kerana minyak gear yang terlalu lama akan kehilangan kelikatanya lalu gagal melindungi geseran komponen gear.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Proton Tuah Persona Replacement Concept

Sistem Brek



Seperti yang kita tahu, brek sangat penting dalam sebuah kereta. Tanpanya tak mungkin kita berani memandu kereta tersebut sekiranya kita mengetahuinya.

Kepada pemilik kereta yang telah menukar injin kereta mereka kepada injin yang mempunyai "kuasa kuda membrek" atau BHP yang lebih tinggi (lebih 25 bhp ke atas), pastikan anda memeriksa dan menilai kembali sistem brek original yang ada pada kereta anda. Jangan kerana nak jimat, anda abaikan sistem brek anda. Lebih baik sekiranya semasa anda membeli haftcut kereta anda, beli bersama sistem brek kereta tersebut dan pasangkan pada kereta anda. Pernah terjadi kereta kancil yang telah di tukar injin kepada Mira L5 tapi sistem breknya masih original. Dan kebetulan semasa keluar dari bengkel, keadaan kecemasan berlaku dan kereta tersebut tidak dapat berhenti walaupun pemandu mengatakan dia tekan brek sampai berdiri.

Sistem asas brek terdiri dari disk atau drum, pelapik brek (pad brek), saluran minyak, pam vacum(objek besar hitam bulat leper betul-betul di hadapan steering dalam kompamen injin), tabung minyak injin, padel brek (tempat tekan brek). Kesemua peralatan asas yang di atas mestilah dijaga dengan baik supaya brek berkesan.


Semasa service pertama, minta mekanik memeriksa kesemua disk dan drum brek termasuk pelapik brek. Pastikan pelapik brek betul betul terapung di antara dua angkup dan disk berada di tengah. Untuk drum, pastikan pelapik brek tidak menyentuh drum atau kesan geseran yang kelihatan adalah sama rata. Jika tidak rata, minta mekanik periksa kerana perkara ini akan menjadi masalah bila ia dibiarkan. Kalau dapat minta mekanik melaraskan pedal brek supaya tidak terlalu 'makan' mengejut dan sesuai dengan panjang kaki kita. Sekiranya minyak brek sudah kotor(keruh warnanya), minta mekanik tukar.

Cara Penjagaan Sistem Brek.

1. Setiap sebulan sekali, periksa paras minyak brek kereta anda (botol minyak depan vacum pam). Pastikan minyak berada diparas antara minimum dan maksimum. JANGAN SEKALI-KALI MEMANDU SEKIRANYA PARAS MINYAK BREK BERADA DI BAWAH PARAS MINIMUM.

2. Setiap 6 bulan semasa kita hendak merotate tayar kereta kita, periksa pelapik brek. Pastikan lapisan pencengkam masih tebal. Sekira kita dapati pencengkam 'makan' tidak sama antara kiri dan kanan, minta mekanik periksa sistem saluran minyak brek atau sistem tekanan brek kerana kemungkinanatekana yang dikenakan ke atas kedua-dua brek tidak sama dan ini sangat merbahaya kepada pemanduan terutama membrek semasa kelajuan tinggi. Perkara yang sama juga perlu dilakukan kepada brek drum.

3. Sekiranya terdapat kesan lelehan minyak brek (kelihatan cat atau apa-apa bahan berasal dari petroleum mencair) pada mana-mana bahagian, minta mekanik memeriksanya. Jangan ambil mudah perkara ini kerana kebocoran ini mungkin keci tapi akan menjadi besar semasa membrek kerana tekanan yang dikenakan ke atasnya.

4. Semasa menambah minyak brek, pastikan minyak brek yang betul spesifikasinya. Dot 3 untuk kegunaan biasa (biasanya kereta yang mempunyai disk di depan dan drum di belakang) dan Dot 4 untuk kegunaan berat (untuk kereta yang mempunyai sistem 4 roda disk dan kereta berkuasa tinggi). Jika tidak pasti tanya mekanik kerana kesilapan minyak brek boleh menyebabkan keseluruhan sistem brek kita akan mengalami kerosakan terutama pada seal yang diperbuat daripada getah.

5. Sekiranya terdapat kesan calar pada disk atau pada drum, minta mekanik menilai samada boleh pakai lagi atau tidak. Jika kita hendak menukar pelapik brek, saya cadangkan asah kembali disk atau tukar drum kepada yang lebih baik. Kesan calar ini boleh menjadi penghalang pelapik brek mencengkam disk atau drum. Hasilnya, brek akan kurang berkesan.

6. Kerosakan yang selalu berlaku adalah brek 'jam'. Keadaan ini berlaku kerana pelapik brek tidak kembali terapung apabila kita lepaskan brek dan terus mencengkam disk. Kerosakan adalah pada angkup yang mengawal pelapik brek.

7. Untuk kereta auto, pelapik brek hadapan akan lebih cepat haus daripada belakang (biasanya dua kali ganda cepatnya), pastikan anda lebih kerap memeriksa pelapik brek hadapan.

8. Sekiranya anda ingin mengubahsuai sistem brek kereta anda, pastikan anda mendapat kebenaran bertulis daripada JPJ kerana adalah menjadi kesalahan dan syarikat insuran kita akan melindungi anda sekira kemalangan berlaku disebabkan sistem brek dan sistem brek anda telah ditukar tanap kebenaran JPJ.

9. Semasa memandu elakkan kaki daripad sentiasa berada di atas padel brek. Ini dapat menjimatkan penggunaan pelapik brek.

10. Semasa menuruni bukit yang curam, jangan gunakan brek, sebaliknya gunakan brek injin (gear rendah) untuk mengawal kelajuan kereta anda.

11. Sekiranya anda suka memandu laju dan secara aggresive, tukar pelapik brek kereta anda kepada yang lebih tahan panas seperti project U. Pastikan anda menukar juga sistem saluran minyak brek anda kepada saluran bersalut steel. Ini bagi memastikan sistem brek kereta anda dapat berfungsi dalam keadaan tekanan dan suhu dan tinggi dan tindakbalas brek anda akan lebih cepat apabila padel ditekan.

Akhir sekali, cuma pastikan setiap kali anda hantar kereta anda untuk ditukar minyak injin, minta mekanik memeriksa juga minyak brek, minyak gear box, pelapik brek, lampu brek ketiga, aras padel brek dan clucth, tekanan angin tayar, aligment tayar, spark plug, penapis angin, penapis petrol dan sebagainya. Jangan cuma tukar minyak hitam saje kerana peralatan lain perlu juga selalu diperiksa. Jangan tertipu dengan mekanik yang cuma menukar minyak hitam dan penapis minyak hitam apabila kita menghantar kereta untuk di service dan kita dikenakan bayaran yang tinggi untuk upahnya.

Sumber Maklumat: http://www.kereta2u.blogdrive.com/archive/1.html

Monday, December 5, 2011

Ooh, when is #PeroduaTweckbot gonna be in my area? Imma get my 20 Point Check for my Perodua car!

Ooh, when is #PeroduaTweckbot gonna be in my area? Imma get my 20 Point Check for my Perodua car!

Drive around in a nice clean polished car. Thanks to #maxshinecentre #milkadeal

Drive around in a nice clean polished car. Thanks to #maxshinecentre #milkadeal

Punca Stereng Berat


Ada ketikanya pemandu tidak berasa selesa apabila stereng menjadi semakin ketat dan berat. Anda perlu menggunakan lebih tenaga untuk memutar stereng dan keadaan ini menyusahkan terutamanya ketika meletak kenderaan dan apabila perlu banyak membelok.

Antara sebab keadaan ini berlaku termasuk tekanan tayar depan yang terlalu rendah, penjajaran (alignment) tayar depan yang kurang tepat, kekurangan atau kerosakan minyak pelincir di dalam kotak gear stereng, kekurangan gris pada sambungan rod stereng atau pengalas tayar depan dan penyelarasan yang kurang sempurna pada peralatan pengemudian.

Apabila berhadapan dengan keadaan sebegini, mula-mula periksalah tekanan tayar hadapan dan pelinciran sambungan rod stereng. Agar pemeriksaan dapat dilakukan dengan mudah, tongkatlah kenderaan hingga kedua-dua roda depan tergantung. Kemudian periksalah adakah sambungan dan skru sistem pengemudian cukup ketat.

Antara bahagian yang harus diutamakan pemeriksaannya termasuk kotak gear stereng, sambungan bebola atau gantungan depan termasuk hujung dan pangkal rod pengikat. Untuk mengetahui kerosakannya, putarlah stereng ke kiri dan ke kanan. Selepas itu putarlah stereng ke kanan penuh, kemudian gerakkan stereng sedikit ke kiri dan ke kanan.

Sistem pengemudian mempunyai peranan yang sangat penting, maka waspadalah terhadap pelbagai kelainan yang wujud. Dalam keadaan lain pula, ketika memandu kenderaan di atas jalan yang datar, stereng terasa cenderung untuk berputar ke sesuatu arah. Jadi, stereng terpaksa dipegang dengan kuat untuk mengelakkannya terus berputar ke satu arah.

Keadaan ini biasanya terjadi disebabkan tekanan tayar kiri dan kanan yang tidak sama, diameter rim kiri dan kanan yang tidak sama, penyelarasan penjajaran roda depan kurang tepat, pegas (spring) gantungan depan yang sudah lemah, patah atau kurang baik pemasangannya, penggalas roda depan sudah rosak atau kurang baik penyelarasannya dan brek dari salah satu roda depan atau belakang bergesel.

Apabila berhadapan dengan keadaan ini, pertama pastikan bahawa beban kenderaan cukup seimbang. Kemudian periksalah sama ada kedua-dua tayar depan dan belakang sama tekanannya. Jika tidak, samakan. Pandu kenderaan perlahan-lahan di atas jalan datar. Luruskan arah kenderaan, rasa dan perhatikan bagaimana kenderaan berjalan. Apabila kenderaan masih cenderung untuk membelok ke satu arah, hentikan kenderaan dan lakukan pemeriksaan seterusnya.

Diameter luar rim kiri dan kanan (untuk roda depan dan belakang) harus sama. Kemudian periksa adakah salah satu pegas depan sudah lemah atau patah. Selain itu, ada kemungkinan juga penyelarasan brek kurang baik atau hanya sebelah yang berfungsi.

Kerosakan pada sistem kemudi boleh menjejaskan sistem keselamatan. Oleh itu, penjagaan aspek penjajaran roda depan tidak boleh dipandang ringan.

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Tayar Haus Antara Punca Kenderaan Bergetar



Ada ketikanya pemandu kereta tidak selesa apabila stereng yang dipegang bergetar dan tidak stabil kerana berat ke sebelah kiri atau kanan. Lebih merisaukan apabila seluruh badan kereta ikut bergetar.

Apabila berhadapan dengan keadaan ini, antara sebab utama kerosakan yang berlaku diberi perhatian termasuk tekanan tayar depan terlalu rendah atau ukurannya tidak sama, kehausan tayar depan tidak sama, kehausan atau kelonggaran sambungan sistem kemudi atau kotak gear stereng bergoyang, penyelarasan jajaran roda depan kurang tepat dan roda depan tidak seimbang.


Jika menghadapi masalah seperti itu pemandu dan penumpang pasti tidak selesa, lebih-lebih lagi jika sedang dalam perjalanan jauh. Untuk itu, punca kerosakan dan getaran perlu diketahui. Apabila memandu kenderaan penumpang atau trak, terutama trak kecil diatas jalan kasar atau rosak, biasanya akan terasa ada goncangan sehingga stereng perlu dipegang dengan kuat. Namun demikian, anda juga dapat merasakan adanya getaran atau goncangan pada stereng dan badan kenderaan walaupun keadaan jalanraya datar dan baik, pada suatu kelajuan antara 70 kilometer sejam (kmj) dan 80km.

Keadaan sebegini dinamakan 'shimmy'. Jadi, jika berhadapan dengan keadaan begini mula-mula periksalah tekanan tayar depan, keadaan sistem kemudi atau skru roda depan. Kemudian periksa kehausan tayar depan, sebaik-baiknya masih mempunyai rusuk bunga dengan tebal sekurang-kurangnya 2mm.

Gunakan tayar baru untuk perjalanan keluar bandar. Ada kemungkinan getaran yang berlaku boleh dihilangkan apabila tayar yang sudah haus diganti dengan tayar baru atau setelah tayar kiri-kanan ditukar kedudukannya. Namun demikian, jika getaran masih terasa juga, sebaiknya pemeriksaan dilakukan dengan lebih teliti kerana dibimbangi kerana disebabkan kehausan atau kelonggaran pada sistem rod kemudi dan sistem gantungan depan; atau kerana penyelarasan penjajaran roda depan yang kurang tepat hingga menyebabkan roda tidak seimbang. Untuk memeriksa dan membuat pembaikan bagi masalah berkenaan diperlukan alat dan kemahiran. Roda tayar dilengkapi satu alat pengimbang. Alat itu menunjukkan letak dan besarnya pengimbang yang harus dipasang pada rim roda.

'Shimmy' boleh terjadi apabila roda tidak dikunci dengan baik pada tempatnya, atau rod gandar tidak segaris dengan lubang pada roda. Jadi, banyak faktor yang boleh menyebabkan 'shimmy'; beberapa kesalahan dapat diperbaiki dengan mudah tetapi ada pula yang memerlukan kepakaran tertentu untuk mengatasinya.

Break Down Tips



These tips are not likely to be accessible by you in the unfortunate event that your vehicle may have a brake-down. However these tips are only indicative and will draw your attention to what needs to be done next. Also this list may not be exhaustive and some problems may not be listed. Please do not attempt to repair the vehicle yourself if the required know-how is not available to you. You will only ruin even the repairable part of the vehicle.
You must remember that there are both repairable and non-repairable parts to any vehicle. Also though some parts are serviceable it makes more sense to replace the same rather than repair (alternator, brake master cylinder etc.)

Vehicle stalled at home

Petrol vehicles

1. If the engine does not turn over when the ignition key is switched on.
Check the battery. You may need to get it charged.
Check if the battery terminal is clean and devoid of oxidisation
Check the main battery wires for looseness or breakage.

2. The engine turns Over but does not start.
Check if there is enough fuel in the tank.
Check if all fuel lines are connected
Check if all main wires are connected.
If these checks do not yield a result the vehicle needs to be taken to an authorised service centre or the breakdown van needs to check the vehicle. There may be a possibility that the Timing belt is broken or
Fuel pump has failed (Mechanical or electrical)

3. The engine starts but not fire consistently.
Check if any wires are loose, or have been damaged by rodents.
Check if all fuel lines are connected.

It always pays to keep the telephone number of the car maker’s helpline at hand. In the event of a break-down, the mobile service van of the car maker will come either to your door-step or your location of break-down and get your car started.

Posted by PowerMoto

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Kereta Elektrik




Kereta yang menggunakan motor elektrik untuk menghasilkan pergerakan. Sumber tenaga elektrik diperoleh dari bateri dalam kereta itu. Sumber lain yang berpotensi ialah dari fuel cell dan tenaga suria. Motor elektrik yang sering digunakan sekarang adalah dari jenis motor arus ulang-alik (AU). Kebelakangan ini, motor yang menggunakan magnet kekal juga popular kerana kos magnet kekal yang semakin menurun dan kualiti semakin meningkat.

Prof Madya Dr Nik Rumzi Nik Idris dari Fakulti Kejuruteraan Elektrik, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia (UTM), berkata secara ringkas, kereta elektrik bergerak apabila motor elektrik menghasilkan daya kilas dan ya memutarkan tayar.

Katanya, kelajuan dan kuasa pemacuan kereta elektrik adalah berdasarkan kelajuan atau daya kilas motor elektrik. Pengawalan daya kilas atau kelajuan motor boleh dilakukan secara cekap dan pantas menggunakan penukar elektronik kuasa.

“Apabila pemandu menekan pedal pemecut, pengawal akan memberikan isyarat kepada penukar elektronik kuasa untuk membekalkan arus atau voltan kepada motor yang berkadaran dengan tekanan kaki yang dikenakan pada pedal.

“Kuasa yang digunakan untuk membrek boleh dikembalikan untuk mengecas bateri. Ini bermakna tenaga untuk membrek tidak akan hilang sebagai haba seperti kereta biasa,” katanya.

Beliau berkata, penggunaan tenaga kereta elektrik lebih cekap kerana motor elektrik serta penukar elektronik kuasa boleh mencapai kecekapan hingga 90 peratus, berbanding enjin kereta pembakaran bahan api yang biasanya mempunyai kecekapan 20 peratus.

Selain itu, katanya kos penyelenggaraan lebih rendah kerana tidak membabitkan penukaran minyak enjin, brek dan ekzos. Namun kos bateri adalah agak tinggi dan jangka hayat bateri haruslah panjang untuk memastikan bateri tidak perlu selalu ditukar.

WALAUPUN menjimatkan penggunaan minyak, kereta hibrid belum meluas di pasaran akibat pelbagai halangan.

Antara faktor halangan utama adalah harga yang lebih mahal kerana kereta hibrid mempunyai banyak komponen, berbanding sistem konvensional. Kebanyakan komponen adalah elektronik yang kompleks, terutama sistem kawalan.

Sebuah kereta hibrid Honda dengan enjin kapasiti 1.3 liter berharga antara RM160,000 hingga RM170,000. Kos kereta yang sama tetapi menggunakan enjin pembakaran dalam pula berharga antara RM110,000 hingga RM120,000.

Perbezaan harga yang besar ini kerana reka bentuk kereta hibrid yang kompleks. Badan kenderaan ini dikatakan diperbuat daripada aluminium yang mahal untuk meringankan keseluruhan kenderaan.

Bolehkah kos kereta hibrid dikurangkan? Dekan Fakulti Kejuruteraan Mekanikal Universiti Teknologi Malaysia (UTM), Prof Dr Azhar Abdul Aziz, percaya ini boleh dilakukan dengan penggunaan komponen elektronik secara meluas, kos pemasangan yang rendah dengan peningkatan permintaan, reka bentuk mudah dan ringkas serta subsidi kerajaan.

Katanya, ini memerlukan penyelidikan rapi oleh pengeluar kenderaan dalam usaha menembusi pasaran di dunia.

Penggunaan kereta hibrid tidak terlepas daripada kontroversi kerana isu alam sekitar akibat penggunaan bateri sistem hibrid.

Ketika ini, kereta hibrid menggunakan dua jenis bateri, iaitu nikel logam hidrid (nickel metal hydride) dan lithium ion. Walaupun kurang toksik berbanding yang berasaskan plumbum, bateri hibrid tetap dianggap berbahaya.

Selain itu, teknologi hibrid masih baru dan memerlukan pengujian rapi serta masih kurang pusat servis yang menyediakan perkhidmatan lepas jualan.

Ketika pengeluar kereta gergasi dunia berlumba-lumba memajukan kereta hibrid, pengeluar kereta kecil, termasuk Proton, menghadapi cabaran sama ada turut mengeluarkan kereta ini atau terus ketinggalan.

Dr Azhar berkata, cabaran pengeluar kereta kecil untuk menghasilkan teknologi hibrid adalah kos pelaburan yang tinggi, keperluan tenaga pakar penyelidikan dan suatu jangka masa untuk melihat hasil penyelidikan tercapai.

KERETA HIBRID
Walaupun prototaip kereta hibrid berjaya dihasilkan, katanya pembinaan kilang mengeluarkan kereta hibrid memerlukan pelaburan besar dan rangkaian vendor yang banyak.

“Kita perlu ingat bahawa terdapat banyak pihak yang melaburkan wang berbilion ringgit untuk menghasilkan sistem hibrid yang boleh diguna secara komersil seperti General Motor, Chryesler, Toyota, Honda, Ford dan Citreon.

Usaha Proton untuk bersaing dalam teknologi dan pengeluaran kereta hibrid ibarat perlumbaan Formula One. Pelumba yang handal tidak mencukupi, tetapi memerlukan sokongan kewangan dan kerja berpasukan yang kukuh serta dedikasi.

Persoalan pokok kepada pengeluar tempatan adalah bersediakah mereka menceburi arena ini atau sekadar cukup dengan permintaan tempatan sedia ada?

KERETA HYDROFUEL

Hydrofuel yang dihasilkan sebuah syarikat tempatan, Hydrogen Fuel Industries (M) Sdn Bhd (HFI), adalah formula penjimatan bahan api hingga 29 peratus dengan menggunakan air sebagai bahan bakar bersama petrol.

Presiden HFI, Dr Halim Ali, berkata Hydrofuel menggunakan sistem teknologi air sebagai bahan bakar sesuai digunakan bagi kenderaan berkapasiti 2,000cc ke bawah.

Memperjelaskan teknologi itu, katanya: ”Air dipecahkan menggunakan frekuensi tinggi dan dikongsi kegunaannya bersama petrol ketika melalui injektor kereta.

“Melalui sistem ini, pemilik kenderaan boleh menjimatkan penggunaan petrol sebanyak 29 peratus dan pada masa sama, membantu memelihara alam sekitar,” katanya

Pengguna Hydrofuel hanya perlu memastikan sebuah air sebuah tong berkapasiti lima liter mencukupi. Setiap tong membolehkan penggunaannya bertahan hingga 2,000 kilometer.

Apabila air berkurangan, alat pengesan yang dipasang pada kenderaan akan memberi amaran supaya menambah air pada paras yang disyorkan.

Sumber : Blog Elektrik & Elektronik
http://sai8384.blogspot.com/2011/11/new-car-buying-tips.html

Vehicle Offroad Tips

If your vehicle is to be off road for a period of time you would need to follow the tips provided below:

Ensure the vehicle is parked in a safe place where there would be no worry about falling objects.

If there is a problem of pests in the area where your vehicle is to be parked tie some naphthalene balls (Tar balls) in a small pouch and place the same under the bonnet, in the boot section and also in the cabin area.

Disconnect the battery terminals, to avoid any possibility of an electrical short circuit. Ensure that petroleum jelly is smeared over battery terminals to prevent oxidization.

If the vehicle were to remain stationary for a long period of time you would need to jack the vehicle up. Only an inch or two above the ground level would be required. Ensure that the jack is safe and will take the weight of the vehicle. You could also use blocks of wood or cement. The requirement is to take the weight of the vehicle off the tyres.

Fill the fuel tank to the top prior to garaging the vehicle. This will prevent the tank insides from catching rust.

Use a garage cover on the vehicle to prevent the paintwork from damage.

While re-starting the vehicle check all lubricant and coolant levels.

Get the battery charged at an authorized service agent prior to connecting the same.

Use water and a wet cloth to remove any oxidization (green powdery build up on the battery wire terminal). After the same has been cleaned use some polish paper to clean the contact area of the terminal to the battery.

Remove the vehicle from the stand if the air pressure is low in the Tyre get the same filled to the recommended pressure prior to using the vehicle.

Ensure all electrical connections are in place and no wires have been stripped or bitten by rodents or other such pests. If a bare wire is seen use insulation tape to cover the same. Also remember to get the same checked by a qualified electrician.

Open all doors and boot section of the vehicle and have the same cleaned with a damp cloth. This will get rid of the smell within the vehicle. Use an air freshener if necessary.

Start the vehicle. Do not rev the engine immediately after starting. The oil pressure needs to develop within the engine. If a cold engine is revved up it may cause a bearing failure and may also damage other parts.

After the engine has reached operating temperature drive the vehicle for a short while. Exercise caution while carrying out this operation. The brakes may not operate as required initially.

By PowerMoto

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Tips for Buying Used Cars


Purchasing used cars is a risky endeavor, and we say this because there is no way to assess a vehicle properly. You don’t want to end up wasting your time and money, do you? However, this doesn’t have to be the case – all you need is some patience.

Why Choose Used Cars?

Used vehicles are often the best values you can find in the automotive market, especially for late models. Not only are prices lower than comparable new cars, but ownership expenses such as collision insurance and taxes are lower, having taken the biggest hit in depreciation.

But first, you must know what you want. People who look for used cars without having an idea usually end up with something they do not need. Make sure to get something that suits your needs such as long distance travelling, family and so on.

Does Price Being The Top Priority?

Don’t buy the cheapest car. In the used car market, the cheapest doesn’t mean the best. Without your knowing, the car might have been involved in a major accident or require extensive repairs. It’s best to get something in an excellent condition, even with a heftier price tag.

Analyzed The Used Cars Carefully Before You Buy

You should also learn more about the car’s previous owner: was he/she a careful driver or was the car used for rental? Any clues on the history can tell you whether the car was abused or involved in a serious accident. If so, stay away from the vehicle!
Considering to buy a used car? Don’t forget to check out the list of Used Cars Dealers

Friday, November 25, 2011

Tip Penjimatan Penggunaan Petrol



1. Isi minyak sebelah malam.
Apabila cuaca sudah sejuk. Dikatakan isi minyak pada waktu malam, kurang gas dalam petrol atau diesel. Kandungan gas dikatakan banyak pada waktu siang yang panas, di mana setiap liter yang di isi pengguna akan rugi sebab haba petrol bercampur lebihan gas dalam kandungannya. Benar atau tidak berdasarkan pengalaman sendiri. Memang benar. Ada perbezaannya. Penggunaan petrol lebih lama bertahan jika di isi pada waktu malam.


2. Isikan minyak sehingga tangki penuh.
Minyak atau petrol cepat habis jika ruang tangki banyak yang kosong. Benarnya tips ini memang ada. Minyak atau petrol akan meruap. Semakin besar ruang semakin banyak minyak atau petrol meruap. Petrol yang meruap tidak dapat dibakar oleh enjin. Dicadangkan juga penuhkan semula tangki apabila tangki separuh kosong. Jangan tunggu sehingga meter pada tanda "E" baru diisi. Semakin banyak ruang kosong semakin banyak petrol meruap, maka lebih cepat habis.


3. Pandu kereta dalam kelajuan yang tetap.
Tidak terlalu laju dan tidak terlalu perlahan. 70 � 90 km sejam adalah bersesuaian. Pastikan anda mematuhi had laju dan pandu pada lorong yang sesuai. Semakin laju kereta, semakin minyak digunakan. Pandu secara perlahan pula menyebabkan beban pada kereta. Ini menyebabkan enjin tertekan dan menyebabkan banyak minyak digunakan.


4. Patuhi jadual penyelenggaraan kereta atau kenderaan anda.
Enjin yang diselenggara akan berfungsi dengan baik dan lebih berkesan. Pada jangka masa yang tetap, gunakan bahan rawatan petrol. Ini bertujuan untuk cucian pada injap minyak agar tidak tersumbat. Pastikan penapis petrol diperiksa atau ditukarkan apabila perlu.


5. Tayar.
Angin tayar perlu sentiasa pada tahap tekanan yang disyorkan pada model kereta dan jenis tayar yang digunakan. Seminggu sekali periksa tekanan tayar. Penjagaan tayar yang baik memastikan cengkaman tayar yang sesuai dan pada jumlah jarak yang jauh nyata menjimatkan minyak.


6. Kereta sesuai untuk perjalanan yang jauh.
Jika tempat yang dituju boleh berjalan kaki atau berbasikal, adalah baik melakukannya. Banyak minyak boleh dijimatkan tetapi keselamatan penting jika jalan dilalui gelap, sunyi dan diragui keselamatannya adalah lebih baik bawa kereta.


7. Jika boleh kurangkan penggunaan penghawa dingin.
Perjalanan pagi atau malam yang sejuk tidak perlu penghawa dingin. Buka tingkap sedikit dan biarkan angin luar masuk. Awas jangan buka tingkap terlalu luas sehingga tangan dari luar boleh mencapain ke dalam dengan mudah.


8. Kurangkan beban kereta.
Barang-barang yang tidak perlu dalam kereta perlu dikeluarkan. Semakin banyak beban semakin banyak tenaga dan minyak digunakan.


9. Pemanasan enjin selama 30 saat.
Panaskan enjin selama 30 saat sahaja. Enjin kereta panas lebih berkesan semasa kereta bergerak. Memanaskan enjin lebih 30 saat bukan sahaja membazir minyak tetapi boleh merosakkan enjin kerana pelinciran enjin lebih berkesan ketika kereta bergerak (maklumat dari PERSATUAN PENGGUNA P.PINANG � CAP)


10. Elakkan menunggu.
Sekiranya anda terpaksa menunggu seseorang di dalam kereta, matikan enjin. Lebih murah untuk menghidupkan semula enjin daripada menunggu 1 minit di dalam kenderaan dengan enjin yang masih hidup.


11. Elakkan menggunakan gear rendah.
Cuba kekalkan halaju kereta lebih daripada 35 km/jam. Langkah gear dari gear 1 terus ke gear 3 atau 4 ketika kereta menuruni bukit atau melalui jalan rata. Tukar gear secepat mungkin ketika menaiki bukit. Apabila memandu secara automatik, tingkatkan halaju anda dengan segera. Jangan andaikan bahawa anda perlu memandu di lebuhraya sahaja untuk menggunakan gear 5. Seboleh-bolehnya pandu dengan gear 5 di mana sahaja walaupun berada di dalam jalan yang kecil.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Panduan Tukar Enjin Kereta


Enjin kereta bermasalah? enjin pecah? bawa kereta laju sampai enjin tercabut... Kereta wira 1.5 nak jadi 1.8 dengan turbo sampai 230hp? Semua tu tak mustahil dan boleh dilakukan. boleh tapi pastikan enjin yang korang nak tukar tu telah disahkan oleh JPJ dan PUSPAKOM.. takdelah korang nampak abang JPJ terus nak patah balik.. itupun kalau sempat… kalau tak, tak pasal – pasal kena blacklist.. okay.. bagi sesiapa yang nak tukar enjin kereta dan caranya adalah seperti berikut:-

Mestilah ada kereta… kalau takda kereta nak tukar enjin macamane? Dapatkan sebiji kereta dulu ye. Antara kereta – kereta yang popular ditukar enjin ialah Proton wira dengan enjin Gsr , Honda dengan enjin b16a, Kancil dengan enjin Ef2 model l2,l5, Nissan Cefiro dengan Rb20 dett, Nissan Ad Resort dengan rb20, Daihatsu charade dengan enjin detomasso (tak ingat nama model) , toyota seg , toyota ae86, dan 2 atau 3 lagi yang feveret. Mengikut pengalaman dan trend muda – mudi kereta wira, kancil, nissan , toyota dan honda paling kerap dimodifikasikan.
mempunyai jpjk2(geran kereta yang sah), kalau ada kat bank kena pegi amik dulu le ye…

Lepas tu beli enjin, kalau tak macamane nak tukar.. enjin pun takde! Pastikan enjin anda tidak melebihi 25% cc asal enjin tapi kalau lebih pegi minta surat kebenaran kawalselia bahagian kejuruteraan automotif jpj. Untuk kereta buatan proton enjin mitsubishi daripada siri 4g63 tidak dibenarkan sama sekali kecuali kereta perdana sahaja..

Kereta mestilah memasang brake disk pada ke empat2 roda bagi kenderaan yang tukar enjin 1.8 keatas..


Lepas tu bawa kereta yang dah tukar enjin tu ke Puspakom!

Dokumen yang perlu di bawa:-

1. Geran original
2. Surat beli enjin
3. Surat kastam - enjin
4. Surat kawalselia bahagian kejuruteraan automotif bagi kereta yang cc enjinya telah melebihi had yang ditetapkan atau model enjin yang berlainan, kalau cc enjin masih sama surat kebenaran ni tak perlu ada.

Itu je dokumen yang perlu.. sikit je.. tak susah mana pun…
Pastikan kereta anda mematuhi akta pengangkutan jalan jpj 1987 seperti:-
kenderaan anda tidak bercermin gelap.. kadar ketelusan cahaya ialah hadapan 70%, cermin sisi kiri dan kanan serta cermin belakang 50%.
Bagi yang upkan cc kenderaan banyak sangat tu pasang brake disk ye…
Jangan pasang bodypart yang melampau.. nanti tak pas pulak.. ubahsuai identiti, so bodypart biar standard dulu..
Ekzos jgn lalu bawah tangki dan berbunyi bising sangat.. bahaya..

Penjagaan Kereta (Malaysia)


1. Setiap pagi sebelum masuk ke dalam kereta, cuba keliling kereta. Perhatikan tayar cukup ke tidak angin. Tiada benda-benda yang melekat pada tayar atau mana-mana bahagian kereta.

2. Sebelum hidupkan enjin, onkan suis dan tunggu apa-apa lampu yang sepatutnya padam sebelum enjin hidup, pastikan lampu”engine check” padam sebelum hidupkan enjin.

3. Hidupkan enjin dan tunggu sehingga enjin meluhu pada kadar RPM yang normal.

4. Bila enjin dah hidup, jangan terus jalan. Tekan brek dan lepas, kemudian jalan ke depan sikit dan tekan lagi brek, jika kereta berhenti, baru boleh teruskan jalan.

5. Seminggu sekali kalau boleh, periksa semua lampu brek termasuk lampu ketiga. Pastikan ia berfungsi. Buka bonet enjin, buka penutup dan periksa air bateri. Pastikan ia berada pada paras antara maksimum dan minimum (kalau pakai bateri kering tak yah la).

6. Buka penutup minyak brek (botol besar dekat body di hadapan pemandu dalam bonet enjin) pastikan minyaknya mencukupi.

7. Cari jarum pemeriksa minyak enjin. Cabut dan lapkan minyak di jarum tersebut kemudian masukkan kembali jarum tu. Bilang sampai lima dan cabut kembali. Minyak perlu berada di paras antara maksimum dan minimum. Kalau bawah daripada minimum masukkan sedikit minyak enjin sehingga ke paras tersebut.

8. Dua minggu / sebulan sekali, pergi ke pam minyak dan periksa tekanan tayar. Tekanan yang sesuai ada dicatatkan di bahagian tiang B (tiang antara pintu depan dengan pintu belakang) sebelah pemandu. Periksa juga tekanan tayar simpanan.

9. Setiap tiga bulan (kalau setiap hari guna kereta) pergi ke kedai tayar dan rotate tayar mengikut aturan yang sesuai.

10. Setiap 5000km pergi ke workshop, tukar minyak enjin (jika guna minyak biasa), tukar penapis minyak setiap dua kali tukar minyak enjin dan tukat plag setiap tiga kali tukar minyak enjin (jika enjin kaburator).

Akhir sekali, setiap minggu, 2 atau 3 minggu sekali basuh dan vakum kereta anda.

Monday, November 21, 2011

Care and Maintenance Tips Keep Your Car Running in Top-Notch Condition



We’ve compiled our best expert advice, surprising tricks, and car care tips to prolong the life of your automobile!


1. Be patient during the break-in period


You’ve bought your dream car and now you want to make it last at long as possible in top condition. Here are some things to remember as you pull it out of the dealer’s lot:

* During the break-in period, typically the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km), keep your speed under 55 mph (88 kpm) or to the speed recommended by your car’s manufacturer.
* Avoid heavy loads on the drive train, such as towing trailers, and loading the roof rack or trunk with heavy construction materials.
* Do not allow your new car to idle for long periods — this is good advice for the life of your car, but especially during breakin. The oil pressure generated by doing so may not be sending oil to every part of your engine.
* Use only light to medium acceleration, keeping the engine rpms below 3,000 for the first few hours of driving.

2. Drive with care everyday
Being car considerate shouldn’t stop after the break-in. Drive with care every day and your car will reward you with longer intervals without repair.

* Do not race your car’s engine during start-up.This is a quick way to add years of wear to your engine, especially if it’s cold outside.
* Accelerate slowly when you begin your drive.The most wear to the engine and drive train occurs in the first ten to twenty minutes of operation.
* Warming the engine by letting it idle in the driveway is not a smart idea.The engine doesn’t operate at its peak temperature, resulting in incomplete fuel combustion, soot deposits on cylinder walls, oil contamination, and ultimately damaged components.
* Put less strain on your engine and automatic transmission by shifting to neutral at red lights. Otherwise, the engine is still working to push the car even while it’s stopped.
* Avoid driving at high speeds and accelerating quickly, especially when it’s very hot or very cold outside. Such driving behavior will result in more frequent repairs.
* Extend the life of your tires with careful driving. Observe posted speed limits. Avoid fast starts, stops, and turns. Avoid potholes and objects on the road. Don’t run over curbs or hit the tire against the curb when parking. And, of course, don’t burn rubber.
* When turning your steering wheel, don’t hold it in an extreme right or left position for more than a few seconds. Doing so can damage the power-steering pump.
* Consolidate your short driving trips. Most of the wear and tear — as well as the pollution your car generates — takes place in the first few minutes of driving. Doing several errands at once, during low traffic hours if possible, will keep your engine happier longer.

3. Buy gas at reputable service stations

Ask whether the gas you buy is filtered at the pump and if the station has a policy about changing the pump filters regularly. If you get a song and dance, find another gas station. Some stations don’t have pump filters, making you more vulnerable to dirty gasoline. Other stations may not mix alcohol and fuel properly — or worse, water down their product. Find a station you trust and stick to it.

4. Don’t fill up if you see the tanker

If you happen to see a gasoline tanker filling the tanks at your local gas station, come back another day or go to a different station. As the station’s underground tanks are being filled, the turbulence can stir up sediment. Sediment in your gas can clog fuel filters and fuel injectors, causing poor performance and possibly necessitating repairs.

5. Go easy when you’re stuck

When stuck in mud or snow, don’t make the problem worse by damaging an expensive component. Gently rocking in an attempt to free the car is fine. But if it looks as though you’re really stuck, don’t keep at it. Throwing your car from forward to reverse repeatedly, as well as spinning tires at high speeds, can generate lots of heat and spell trouble for transmissions, clutches, and differentials. It may be cheaper in the long run to call the tow truck rather than risk big repair bills down the road. It’s a good idea to carry a traction aid in the trunk, such as sand, gravel, or cat litter.

6. Lighten up your key chain

Does your car key share a chain with a dozen or more other keys? That’s a pretty heavy load hanging off the car key when it’s in the ignition.The weight, combined with bouncing while you drive, can wear out the tumblers inside the ignition and eventually lead to ignition switch failure.To add years of service to your ignition switch, purchase a lightweight key chain that allows you to separate your ignition key from the others. Drive with only the ignition key in your ignition. If your ignition key “sticks” when you try to turn on the car, it’s a warning that your ignition switch is about to fail. Replace it before you get stranded.

7. Choose a good car insurer

Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, disaster inevitably strikes — typically in the form of an accident. Make sure that your car will be repaired to the best possible standard by finding an insurer that will pay for parts from the original manufacturer and guarantee the repairs it authorizes.

8. Keep an auto log


Keep a pad and pencil in the glove compartment and use them to record your gas fill-ups and mileage. If you notice that your gas mileage worsens, mention it to your service man. It may be an early warning sign that something is wrong with your car.

9. Preserve your car during long-term storage

If you are not going to use your car for more than a month, store it properly to prevent unnecessary damage and repairs upon your return.

* Fill the gas tank to help prevent condensation from accumulating in the gas tank. Add a fuel stabilizer and drive the car around a bit to distribute the additive to engine parts.
* Wash and wax the car thoroughly to protect the finish.
* Place a vapor barrier on your garage floor. A 4-mil polyethylene drop cloth will do.
* Disengage the parking brake to help avoid brake corrosion.
* Put the car on jack stands to take the weight of the vehicle off the wheels and tires.
* Disconnect and remove the battery to keep it from draining. Place the battery on a trickletype charger. Or periodically drain the battery, using a small light bulb, and then recharge it with a low-volt charger.
* Plug the tailpipe with a rag to prevent moist air from infiltrating into it.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Car Care Basics That Anyone Can Do





Contrary to the popular belief, not all car care tasks take a lot of time and require a lot of car skills. As a matter of fact, basic car carecan be done by just about anyone, even those with very minimal knowledge of mechanics.

For example, regular washings are a huge part of basic car care. By keeping the outside of your car clean, you are not only keeping your car shiny and looking like new, you are keeping your paint from getting scratched. This is because the debris that can accumulate on the outside of a car over time can act as an abrasive, rubbing off the protective clear coat (if your car has one) and digging into your paint. To be sure, car care does not get much easier than taking your vehicle through a car wash!

One of the other easier components to car care involves regularly checking your oil levels. Believe it or not, you are actually supposed to do this every time you fill up your gas tank. Many people do not do this or fail to do it, and by the time they take their vehicles to a professional to have their oil changed, the engine of the car has been damaged already by the lack of oil that was available. Depending on how frequently you fill up your gas tank, you might not really need to check it each time, but you should definitely do it at least once a month as part of your car care routine.

Speaking of routine car care, when is the last time you changed your windshield washer blades? This should be done at least once a year, and it takes less than five minutes to do. Moreover, changing your windshield wiper blades is one of the most affordable and easiest components to car care. Over time, particularly in the cold winter months, the rubber on the blades can get hard and it will soon crack, scratching the glass of your windshield. Before this happens and you have to get your glass repaired, change them out.

Filling up your reservoir with windshield washer fluid is another easy car care basic. All you have to do is buy the fluid and dump it into the right tank. You do not want to fill it up with water, as when the weather gets cold the water can freeze and expand, bursting the plastic reservoir.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Gearbox Care Tips



When we buy a new car, all parts are new including the gear box. And if we note, is indicated when the millage our car reached 1,000 km, we need to send a car for the first service. The first service is the last check-up should be done at allcar by car manufacturers. Things to be checked at the first service including changing all of oil in the car, including gear box oil. Do not ignore the first service is due to the
This time of engine oil and oil gear box containing excess iron or iron in the dust engine will be removed to prevent erosion engine and gear box.
For those who buy secondhand car, what to do, change the oil once the gear box you bought the car and record your car's millage reading. For auto, each of 15,000 or 20.000 km, change your gear box oil. For the user, each of 40.000 or 50,000 km change your gears box oil. This is very important to secure your gear box is moving smoothly and in the "normal operating temperature" at all times. However millage necessary to gear box oil change depending on the car and the type of gear box (Follow the guidelines in the manual car). I suggest every two times a gear box oil change, enter some gear treatment. Every time a car service, ask the mechanic to check all the gear oil level box of your car. Make sure it is above the minimum. DO NOT DRIVE IF LEVEL
GEAR OIL LEVEL LESS THAN MINIMUM GEAR TOOTH DAMAGES TO AVOID.
For the car owner, while driving should never put your feet on the pedals clucth. In can shorten the life expectancy clucth plate tone and gear damage your car. DO TRY TO DO 'SPIN WHEEL'. Adjust the level clucth to be in a suitable the length of your legs (ask mechanic). Do not force entry if gear not otherwise first try to let handbrek (Especially deer). When he arrived at traffic lights, gear and pull handbrek naturalkan. Do not let the engine idle in bergear. Seek help to identify a maximum speed of mechanically gearbox driving your car and do not exceed this maximum speed.
For auto, make sure you understand the use of all gear levels of P, R, D, L, 2 and 3. For
normal driving, use only D and when cut, use the "overdrive button". If the car you do not have the overdrive button (1.6 heroes have overdrive button and not the hero of 1.3, 1.5, deer), you must accept the fact that your car can not be driven by aggresive.
Do not use the overdrive button at speeds exceeding 100 km / h as function of the overdrive button as we gear down from 5th gear to 4th gear when the gear cut and fixed in 4 to we off overdrive button. Imagine at a speed exceeding 100 km / h we can turn the gear to gear 4 or 3. If we were not lucky, we may be able to collect all the gears and screws scattered on the road. Gears 2, 3, and L is for the car up when we can not climb steep slopes. This gear level only for low speed (Depending on the type of car).
For the semi-auto cars, triptronik, steptronik. Use of gear box oil is recommended by
producers is very important. NEVER CHANGE THE TYPE OF GEAR BOX OIL EXCEPT FOR THE ADVICE OF PRODUCERS. Shifting from high to low must follow the speed recommended by the manufacturer.
If there is a discharge or escape of oil or gearbox oil out of you, do not panic, your gear box is not damaged, just the possibility of gear box oil seal is 'dead'. Just check the level
gear box oil more often and make sure it is always enough. Every time we change the clucth plate, change the oil seal even if it does not leak because the life of the gearbox oil seal is usually equal to the lifespan clucth plate.
Lastly, if you use auto car made in Europe or non-Japanese, make sure Do not blow out any wires that are connected to the gear box when upgraded sound system, alarm or any modifications. And try 'Stroke' and 'driving gently, as if gear box is damaged, the average repair cost RM2000 and RM7000 to change the gear box (store cut) or RM12000 (Recon and certified EON) (except for Perdana V6 = RM 22,000).

Saturday, November 5, 2011

How To Keep Car In Long Term




For some people a car is not just transport, but as a collection of highly loved. For those who often deals outside the country, surely they had to leave the vehicle during the period of time in the garage.

If the vehicle is left on for long periods it can affect the performance of the vehicle or hard on. There are several techniques to keep the car in a long time either in the six months to many years without reducing performance. If you encounter this situation put the vehicle in the garage, a dry and cold.

In addition follow a few steps to take. The first step is to disconnect the car battery cable. It is to turn off the vehicle battery current, if left too long the vehicle battery may be weak.

Fill fuel tank full if you keep the vehicle more than one year, it aims to overcome the problem steam, water damage and corrosion. Before you save the vehicle, replace the engine oil and filter.

Keselinder Instill a new engine oil to provide a protective layer on the cylinder. you also need to drain all the air to prevent corrosion occurring on that part. It is also to prevent problems due to liquid cooling or contact with aluminum.

Do not dry the air radiotor. If the age of one and a half years have been cooler, replace with new ones. Full contents of brake oil. Change, if it exceeds two years. Long oil will damage metal components.

To avoid damage to the vehicle shock absorbers, Lever the four wheels to relax tires, bearings and other components of shock absorbers.

Wrap your car with a cloth, do not forget to open the window slightly to allow air in and out. Based on the information it helps you to overcome the problem of the vehicle when left for a prolonged period.

Choosing A Right Workshop




Personally, I dun like to simply sending my car to any workshop available around my area, even to authorized service center. For a reason, there are so many foremen out there that likely to take advantage, be it in term of service charge or even the doubtful of their technical know-how knowledge. Hence, I normally do some kind of groundwork just to get the real expert to maintain my babe with minimum hassle!!. These are some general guidelines:

- Get recommendation from the workshop’s existing customers if possible.
- Analyze the crowd getting their vehicles into the workshop.
- Determine the number of foremen around, so that we can possibly know how fast we can get their instant hand to our car.
- Look for the car type/model they are repairing, or the loosen parts that might be scattered around, to get some indication about their niche expert. Note that car system might vary from each model and it always a necessity to get into a proper expert.
- Sending our car for a normal light service jobs before considering a real heavy one and examine the overall service given.
- Always test the knowledge and expertise level of the foremen by any means we think appropriate, given the knowledge constraint we might have. To start with, maybe try to get some fresh opinion about certain car problems which we’ve already known the answer, just to cross check.
- Evaluate how friendly they are and more importantly how serious they’re entertaining us like a customer.
- Don’t forget to ask for payment receipt/bill for every job they did and keep it for our future reference, particularly in comparing the cost charged and also keeping us a complete list on parts that being repaired/changed.
- Monitor the time they start operated daily. Those who open late are most likely to deliver bad service than we expected, although not all. But, time management is important and surely we dun wan to spend long hours just to wait for them.
- Find workshop that have easy access to public transport, just the case if we need to leave the car behind for couple of hours/days.
- Check the job quality. No point to deal with a reckless foremen that creating much scratches in the car body, even if their service is extremely fast and competitive charge.
- Look into some basic facilities the workshop is providing to customers, simply like convenience rest place, reading materials, drinks etc..etc…
- Check either they replace with genuine parts and ask whether they provide for some basic warranty on what ever jobs they’re doing.
- I also like workshop that is oily-free floored, tidy, well kept and not mess up with various tools lay down on the floor, very much, which at least giving few hints in judging their professional practiced.

Thursday, November 3, 2011

Submerged Car Tips Flood




Here are some tips for all of the action after the flood submerged cars.

1. After the flood subsided, check your car. If you sink the entire car including the engine and parts in the cabin of the car, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SWITCH engined car. This action is usually done by agents penunda workshop or car. The reason that car owners have to pay more for car repairs because when you try to turn the car engine, the electric current to flow to the engine electronic systems, including computer box (for electronic injection cars) and if there are remnants of water in the tool , there will be a short circuit in which the device had in place. The cost of a computer box is about RM1000 - RM1500 depending on car type, cc and consumer choice. Action on the sensor will also cause all of which would normally switch to operate when we turn our engine on fire and is usually a sensor is not very expensive price, but the effect of the sensor does not work can lead to high costs. Take the example of sensors to detect or to direct the flow gearbox oil well in the gear box when not working will cause the gearbox oil distribution is uneven and most of the gear box to work properly is 2 to 3 months. After that, the entire gearbox to be replaced (the price for a new gearbox hero is approximately 1.6 auto RM7000). This is one reason why when we buy a new car, a car warranty will be repealed when we modify the car elektirk including the car audio system when the sensor does not receive a sufficient amount of electricity, it can not function well and related equipment will be damaged.

2. When they got to the workshop, your car open cover a whole, including all electronic devices.

3. Check your car's spark plugs. Make sure it is not watery. If water means the water has gone into the engine. Also, check the engine oil. Make sure the engine oil is not mixed with water. And do not check the exception of petrol. After all electronic equipment has been thoroughly dried completely (usually 2 or 3 days). Engine can be turned on but do not try to run the car as the gearbox has not been examined.

4. If the engine can be turned on, 'murahlah' expenses if not possible to reach thousands. Check the gearbox oil, it is usually red and if mixed with water, the color will turn into water color views (red milk). If mixed with water, gear oil change, run the car for 2-5 minutes and check back in gear oil. Repeat this action until the gearbox oil to be really clear or red water. Normally, this process must be repeated up to 7-8 times and will use about 15-20 liters of gearbox oil.

If there is no damage that involves electronic equipment, the cost would only involve wages, engine oil, gearbox oil and some water-sensitive equipment such as air filter (original).

Friday, October 28, 2011

Car Care - Things You Should Know


This paper seeks to provide some assistance or guidance to the drivers "P" which had just driving their cars.

It is hoped diketarakan advice in these results could help motorists when they encounter problems.

It should be reminded of them if you just get himself a new car or plan to get the vehicle "second hand", you should know little of how you can keep the car.

You as a "driver" or "owner" shall not be lets whole-round responsibility for the mechanics to solve all your problems.

The first is recommended that you take steps to become a member / join the Automobile Association of Malaysia (AAM - Automobile Association of Malaysia).

Become a member of every year fees of about RM60 only. A.A.M. will provide assistance and services 24 hours in the Klang Valley.

In addition, as drivers regardless of their gender should be aware of your own car. Short words, you as a woman should not "ignorant" about car care.

There are a few car parts or components that should be introduced to you. The first "plugs". Most cars have four pieces, except Kancil 3 only. Usually not a lot of problems relating to these components.

New car, or "second hand", if the plugs changed 6-9 months is sufficient. Leave it to the mechanics to decide when to change this component.

Second, it is "water filters" (air filters). These components filter the air entering the carburetor. Today the air is dirty.

Proposed are changes this section is about 6 months. Remember, air filters may affect the "timing" of an engine.

Third, is the "engine oil" and thus "oil filter". Based on how much miles you dive, the average engine oil / lubricant recommended 5000 miles once converted. There are some people exchange goods according to the period of time.

Prominent to you which of the following similar. For a new car, or "second hand", the easiest, choose the type of lubricants "Multigrade" (10W - 50W).

If there is any abstruseness, refer your mechanic / foreman.

There is a component that needs to be reminded to you. This is the fuel filter. There was dirt in the fuel material.

From time to time, make sure that these components are changed. This step can help ensure that your vehicle will run quoting with smooth or slippery.

The fifth component is the "radiator" or water tanks. The temperature of your car is controlled by this section. Plastic tube connected to the engine radiator (water tank).

From time to time peek plastic saved water level. If the lack of water, fill this place. No need to fill the water in the radiator. There's only open the radiator cover. Motorists are reminded that lack of experience never attempt to open the radiator cap is hot.

This is because the temperature / hot water can be splashed out and hurt your body / hands / your members.

The sixth should I remind you is the "brake oil". Note the plastic brake oil flowed to the top.

Dont let levels fell to below.

Use DOT 3 brake oil. Avoid the use of DOT 4 (for cold weather vehicles such as Europe).

If the brake oil red, it can be mixed with the green brake oil. Dont worry about interfere with both the brake oil colors.

The seventh component is the "wheels". There are three things - stress, balance and alignment. You should be aware of the tire.

Due to third on a little strange for someone who just can license, then proposed to leave to change the tire specialist.

The one good that you learn to create your own stress. The simplest, must remember the rear wheel pressure 24-26 psi (pounds per sq. Inch) and next, because the engine cover, 26 -28 psi.

The third brake light or brake both sides there were times when not ligh up. Change bulb only. You can do conversion himself. If in difficulty, send it to your mechanic.

Remember, if any brake lights are not burning, you may have to summon the police.

"Horn" sometimes fail to function, especially during rainy weather. This component is placed at the bottom of the vehicle exposed to water and easily damaged. Horn broken complicated driver.

To overcome this problem, send it to the mechanic.

Another important component of our cars is the "battery". The battery is now not to care, no need to add water as the old types.

If you are still using the old type to bateru filled with water, make sure the battery water level reached the top level. The water used to fill the battery water battery can usually be purchased goods shop auto supply stores.

The battery consists of nine types of plates or 13 plates. The 13 plates of larger, more powerful, more durable than 9 plates. Keep a good battery and your battery will last approximately 15 months average.

The last one, things, or even a small component, always forgotten, many drivers, but remember, you can get a summons if happen to you. Numbor your rear plate.

Always note the number plate from time to time. If it does not flare up, like for bulb. It costs a few cents just to avoid you liable to suit.

I apologize in advance if there are differences that occur between the opinions that I presented the opinions of other speakers.

Driving Made Easy

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Tip On The Aircon



Car aircon systems are operated with a gas compressed by the compressor. This gas will flowing through the cooling coil inside the car cabin and the blower will blow the wind through cooling coil and remove the cold wind. After that the gas must be cooled again and passes through the radiator cools the condenser of the gas. That is basically how the car aircon works. There are many problems that often arise as a result of damage to equipment aircon.

1. Wind heat or aircon not cold. This occurs because some damage. We recommend checking
Our aircon gas content by looking at the window above the aircon gas filter (silver bottle
with the glass at the top) If you see any bubbles, I mean gas is still there. So damage is not due to leakage. Turn on the aircon. Note the fan in front of the radiator condensers. If the fan is not moving. This means the fan is faulty and should be changed. I suggest that fans get from the store used because they are less expensive pieces (about RM100-RM150). If the fan does not move, but movement speed, the fan should also be changed. If the fan is moving fast and masuh aircon not cold, let the aircon is on and see one an aircon pipe the gas channel. If you can see the water spots start to look the of gas flow to the cooling coil kompressor good. But airon still not cold, chances are, valve that controls the entry of gas into the cooling coil clogged or damaged. To change the valve. This cooling coil in the open and the gas should be removed and I suggest for the aircon service at once.

2. Aircon not cold enough. This usually happens to the cars are fully imported (CBU) or after the aircon diservice. No real damage because the aircon temperature controlled by a switch that m 'on'kan and our aircon meng'off'kan automatically. Ask the mechanic to adjust the switch
aircon so long 'on'.

3. In the long journey, after a while, aircon not cold. This happened because the switch the control 'on' and 'off' aircon can not function properly or injiap the gas control into the cooling coil is damaged causing the entry of gas into the cooling coil and excessive make the cooling coil freezing or ice occurs even block the flow of gas out and cause the cooling coil is only part of the cold and some hot. If this happens, stop your car for a while (until no more ice on gas pipelines) and adjust the thermostat to a temperature of at least cool. In the event again, I mean, valves or aircon switch you need to be changed.

4. Water dripping. This happens because as the '3 'above.

5. Wind aircon smelly. This may happen because of external air into the system aircon air channels Kerta you or your aircon for too long not diservice to cause all dust and wet was moldy and foul odor.

6. White smoke out the white smoke is actually dirt and water vapor occurs. for gas too cold. The reason adlah as '3 '.

7. Aircon air funnel out oily. If this happens, I mean you have experienced a cooling coil leakage and eventually will run out of gas and wind the aircon will be hot. Based on my experience, I recommend the aircon diservice each year and a half or two year and to travel long distances in the highway, do not adjust the thermostat at a temperature as it cooled will damage the cooling coil valve. And for users of Malaysian-made car, not too Play with your aircon thermostat because it is very sensitive. The cost to repair rather
expensive.

All About Auto Car Seat Cover


Auto car seat covers are a necessity when you have young children particularly babies. A baby can be sick following a feed and this often happens in the car. It is much easier to be able to remove the car seat cover and put it in the washing machine than trying to clean the original upholstery.

As well as protecting your interior from your kids, covers also help to keep your car clean and tidy. You can remove them easily to clean your car thoroughly on a regular basis. If you travel a lot, you will know how easy it is to build up rubbish. Used coffee cups and papers are only part of the problem. You will find a lot of dirt and dust gathers on your seat covers just from traveling down the freeway.

There are many different styles and types of auto car seat covers to choose from. You can find ones with pictures of movie idols such as Marilyn Monroe. Others have patterns suitable for kids such as Disney themes etc. You can find sheepskin or cotton, leather or vinyl in both universal and custom made designs. There is a range of pet friendly fabrics as well. The choice really is unlimited and gives you the opportunity to stamp your personality on your motor. You can be as loud as you like in your choice of fabric and colors.

Shop around to get the best deals and try to buy products from companies offering a warranty just in case there is a quality issue. Don’t forget to be mindful of the weather conditions. If you don’t get much sunshine where you live, having UV resistant covers won’t be a priority. However for those lucky to live in the sunshine states, they are a necessity in auto car seat covers.